< back to latest

Alex Luger Interview

What’s your favorite spot/location to be active?
On a steep exposed wall a few hundred meters above the ground with just one perfect clean crack leading up to the summit.
How do you prepare for a project/contest (info/training/nutrition)?
In the beginning I don’t have a project so much as a mixture of ideas and wishes. As my motivation grows, the project starts to grow and truly become an objective. Soon I am totally committed. Along the way, I am always honest with myself about the time and resources I need to complete it.
What are your biggest accomplishments?
For sure it’s getting the first repeat of Prinzip Hoffnung in 2009. It’s a trad testpiece first ascended by Beat Kammerlander, and it was an important ascent because it solidified my fascination with trad climbing. Also, in 2010 and 2011 I made two first ascents located on the Rote Wand at the Lechquellengebirge. These routes are almost completely protected with traditional gear: Dragons, Wallnuts, etc. I think that climbing into the unknown and not knowing if something is possible, and doing this with a focus on natural protection is climbing at its most pure.
What are your next goals (related to your sport)?
To pursue traditional climbing at my personal limit on new lines on big walls.
Who do you look up to, who motivates you?
The achievements of Hermann Buhl impressed me a lot in my youth, as well as the achievements of pre- and post-war alpinists in general. I also admire Beat Kammerlander and Martin Scheel for their first ascent style in the Rätikon – these routes were way ahead of their time. But I am not only fascinated by achievements of climbing protagonists, but also by passionate people in general. When their eyes sparkle while they’re talking about climbing it conveys a great energy.
Who is your favorite person to hang out with/be active with?
On a sketchy climb it’s always good to be with a good friend.

What is your ‘2nd’ soirt (not only outdoor activities)?
My winter passion is skiing.
What’s your favorite thing to do on a day off?
For me, days off are pretty rare ;) … I like to hang out, drinking lots of coffee while reading a book or listening to music.
What’s your favorite adidas product and why?
The Terrex PrimaLoft Jacket.
What’s your favorite food?
Hmm. I like almost everything, but most of the time I eat Italian food like pasta. After a strenuous day a nice steak with some potatoes is the best.