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Matteo Bernasconi Interview

  • Matteo Bernasconi 1

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What’s your favorite spot/location to be active?
Monte Bianco.

How do you prepare for a project/contest?
Usually I follow a specific diet for each project (rock climbing, ski, ice climbing or mountaineering). I try to practice a lot so I am sure to be able to recover within short rest periods.

What are your biggest accomplishments?
2006: Cerro San Lorenzo (New Route Caffè Cortado 1200m in stile alpino ED).
2007: Cerro Piergiorgio (attempt, climbed 600m).
2009: Cerro Torre (Ragni route, west face, 1° italian repetition).
2010: Torre Egger west face (The Egger Project 500m – 200m max VI°/80° - 300m max 6c/A1), Taghia (Repetition of a series of multi-pitch routes).
2011: Aladaglar 2011 New Route “COSE TURCHE” Kazilin Basi (300m 7a obb. 8b?).
Repetition all over the Alps of rock/mixed ice routes (i.e. Heckmair route – Eiger north face).
Rock climbing 7c on-sight end 8b max.
Ice climbing max 6° grade.

What are your next goals related to your sport?
For the end of 2011- beginning 2012 to complete the Egger Project route on the west face; then for 2012 going to Turkey to do the r.p. clean of the route I’ve opened with Davide Spini, Cose Turche. These 2 projects have been already planned and confirmed, in addition I would like to schedule an expedition in Pakistan, but for the moment it’s nothing concrete.

Who do you look up to, who motivates you?
The emotions and adventures that mountain can offer you, and also the fascination of a daily challenge to push ourselves beyond our limits, farther than the previous day.

Who is your favorite guy to hang out with/be active with?
It depends on the project I have to face.

What’s your ‘2nd‘ sport?
Indoor climbing.

What’s your favorite thing to do on a day off?
I usually use my day off to work on my pc and update my mailbox and website.

What’s your favorite adidas product and why?
My favorite adidas product is the Terrex Feather Jacket because is light, foldable and highly durable. It fits well and is comfortable to wear.

What’s your favorite food?
Pizza without any doubts!