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Matteo Della Bordella Interview
What’s your favorite spot/location to be active?
Berner Oberland, especially Wenden, because of the gray limestone, Ticino for the red granite and the Dolomites for the environment and the variety of climbs.
How do you prepare for a project/contest?
When I’ve got an important project to accomplish first of all my mind is usually very focused on that. I just try to go and climb on this project whenever the conditions allow me to do it and plan the rest of my time accordingly, in function of being free and ready for that project; any activity in the mountains depends so much on conditions and my goal is always to be ready and in a good shape at the right moment, but I’ve never did any scheduled training.
What are your biggest accomplishments?
I consider as my biggest accomplishments some of the routes I’ve opened and free climbed: “Infinite Jest” first of all, but also “Non è un paese per vecchi”, “Coelophysis” and others. I’m also quite proud of when at 2o I onsighted the “Fish” route in Marmolada, in one day, with my father following and belaying me. That’s surely one of the best memories I’ve not only of my climbing career but of my life in general.
What are your next goals related to your sport?
Well, it’s hard to say since I’ve really many projects I would like to realize. Anyway I’ll just pick up some of them: to open a new route, possibly in free climbing on a 6000m peak in Pakistan, to free climb El Capitan, to push my limits both in trad climbing and sport climbing (specifically my next goals are to climb respectively E9 and 8c), then I’ve plenty of projects for free climbing and big wall to check out here in the Alps…In general when you have a big wall, wherever it is, being able to free climb it is a good challenge for me.
Who do you look up to, who motivates you?
I take great inspiration from Stephan Glowacz, his life is just as I wish my life would be and his style when going on expedition is a perfect mix of climbing and exploring with great respect for the environment. Other significant figures for me are surely Beat Kammerlander for his visionary routes and opening style and Alex Honnold for his hard climb and solos, although I’m against advertising too much free solo ascents.
Who is your favorite guy to hang out with/be active with?
Once again it’s hard to choose only one partner, since I love to know new people and climb with different climbers. But currently if I’ve to pick up one I say Fabio Palma, we shared together many exciting moments on the rocks and we make a good rope party. At the same level as Fabio, the other best partner is my father, who introduced me to mountaineering and climbing.
What’s your ‘2nd‘ sport?
I would say my second favorite sport is (or maybe it’s better to say was) sailing. Unfortunately also this activity, similarly to alpinism and climbing, requires a lot of time and commitment, so I decided to give up a few years ago and dedicate myself only to the mountain.
What’s your favorite thing to do on a day off?
I love to hang out with friends, with girls, to party and meet new people. And right now I like to play poker, it’s really exciting and I’m starting to get into the game, although I don’t play that often and I’ve always bet very low sums of money. But sometimes after long climbing journeys I’m really tired and feel the need to rest; in those situations I’m just very lazy and prefer to relax and watch a good movie.
What’s your favorite adidas product and why?
After some thinking I realized my favorite adidas product is Terrex pants. I chose this item because it’s so hard to find the right pants for free climbing in mountain. They need to have a good fitting first of all, then they need to repair from wind, cold and water, but without being too warm and heavy and always leaving you a good mobility, since I want to free climb. adidas Terrex pants have all these characteristics and I can tell you that before trying them it has been a long and unsuccessful search.
What’s your favorite food?
I’m a bit ashamed since I’ve to say that I love junk food. Well, normally when I’m at home, I try to eat natural and healthy but especially when I travel I like to try everything new and strange. But probably my favorite dish is a good pizza after a long climbing day in Wenden, at Felix’s camping, in Gadmen, of course.